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13 years after the war, the areas inside independent Kosovo where Serbians used to live form an actual State inside the State. Little mono-ethnic “enclaves”, which the Kosovar government has no authority upon. The inhabitants of these areas vote mayors that only they recognise, they have their own money, they have infrastructures, schools and hospitals managed directly from Belgrade. But they live without any freedom of movement and without job, trying to avoid Albanian cities to avoid attacks. A situation that brought more than 200.000 Serbians to leave Kosovo. A journey through a situation that western media ignore